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We use wiring diagrams in lots of diagnostics, but when we are not careful, they can on occasion bring us to produce decisions who are not accurate, be responsible for wasted diagnostic time, unnecessary parts costs for that replacing parts aren't defective, or even missing a simple repair.
Today, the wiring diagram required to support a certain repair procedure is roofed within it or the link is provided to the proper SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM article. One example is, the wiring diagram for a Ford EEC-IV system could possibly be found in ENGINE PERFORMANCE and WIRING DIAGRAMS articles for Ford Motor Co. The wiring diagram for just a cruise control system could be contained in ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT section for the specific vehicle manufacturer, and the wiring diagram to have an anti-lock brake system may very well be found in BRAKES and WIRING DIAGRAMS for the particular manufacturer.
In my recent multi-part series on automotive electrical systems (which included primers on how electricity works and how to use a multimeter), I gave a shorter troubleshooting example through which We used a multimeter to confirm that voltage was present. If a device—say, a stainless steel motor—isn't working, first determine if voltage is reaching it as soon as the switch that powers the set up is turned on. If voltage is present for the device's positive terminal, test for continuity between the wire on the device's negative terminal and ground (first the body of the auto, while the negative battery terminal). Whether or not it passes those tests, conduct a voltage drop test to look for an increased resistance failure. If the voltage drop test shows not a problem, the set up is toast.