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We use wiring diagrams in many of our diagnostics, however if we are not careful, they can on occasion bring us to produce decisions who are not accurate, resulted in wasted diagnostic time, unnecessary parts costs for the replacing parts who are not defective, and even just missing a straightforward repair.
Today, the wiring diagram needed to support a given repair procedure is protected within it or a web link is provided to the correct SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM article. One example is, the wiring diagram for just a Ford EEC-IV system could possibly be contained in ENGINE PERFORMANCE and WIRING DIAGRAMS articles for Ford Motor Co. The wiring diagram for the cruise control system may be a part of ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT section for the precise vehicle manufacturer, as well as the wiring diagram on an anti-lock brake system may be incorporated into BRAKES and WIRING DIAGRAMS for the actual manufacturer.
Within my recent multi-part series on automotive electrical systems (which included primers on how electricity works and how to use a multimeter), I gave this quick troubleshooting example by which I often went a multimeter to substantiate that voltage was present. If your device—say, a stainless steel motor—isn't working, first evaluate if voltage is reaching it when the switch that powers the system is turned on. If voltage is present within the device's positive terminal, test for continuity between your wire on the device's negative terminal and ground (first one's body of the car, and then the negative battery terminal). Whether or not it passes those tests, conduct a voltage drop test to carefully consider a very high resistance failure. If the voltage drop test shows no issue, the device is toast.